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Rotten-egg smell, rusty or cloudy hot water

One test sorts out most cases: compare the hot tap with the cold. If only the hot water is off, the water heater is the likely source, and the fix depends on the symptom.

Smelly, rusty or cloudy hot water: symptom to likely cause Three symptom groups, each with a simple test and its outcomes. Rotten-egg smell: compare hot and cold taps after being away a few hours. Hot only points to the water heater; both taps with a smell that fades points to sulfur bacteria in the well or plumbing; both taps with a constant smell points to hydrogen sulfide in the groundwater. Rusty or brown water: run the cold tap too. Hot only points to the water heater, from corrosion, iron bacteria or sediment; both taps that clear after running point to corroding steel pipes; sudden discoloration in both points to a water main disturbance. Cloudy or milky water: fill a clear glass and wait. If it clears from the bottom up it is harmless air; if particles settle it is likely mineral scale. What you notice → what it usually means Rotten-egg smell Test: after a few hours away, smell the hot and cold taps separately Hot tap only The water heater: bacteria + anode reaction Hot and cold, fades as water runs Sulfur bacteria in the well or plumbing Hot and cold, constant Hydrogen sulfide in the groundwater Rusty, brown or red water Test: run the cold tap at the same fixture Hot tap only The water heater: corrosion, iron bacteria, sediment Hot and cold, first use; clears after running Corroding steel pipes in the house or service line Hot and cold, suddenly Water main disturbance usually clears in hours Cloudy or milky water Test: fill a clear glass and set it down for a few minutes Clears from the bottom up Air bubbles harmless White grit or flakes settle to the bottom Mineral scale from hard water heated in the tank Hot-only symptoms point to the water heater
Start with the hot-versus-cold test. Based on guidance from the Vermont and Minnesota health departments, A.O. Smith’s technical bulletins and the City of Albany, Oregon’s water quality FAQ.

THE SHORT VERSION

  • Rotten-egg smell from the hot tap only is usually sulfate-reducing bacteria reacting with hydrogen from the heater’s magnesium anode. Fixes: disinfect the tank and swap to a less active anode, or chlorinate the supply. Don’t just pull the anode; that voids the tank warranty.
  • Smell from hot and cold taps points to the well, plumbing or groundwater, not the heater. Vermont’s and Minnesota’s health departments say to test for coliform bacteria and nitrate too.
  • Rusty water from hot only can be tank corrosion, iron bacteria or sediment. If a flush doesn’t clear it and the tank is near 10 years old, plan a replacement.
  • Rusty water from both taps usually means corroding steel pipes or a water main disturbance, not the heater.
  • Milky water that clears from the bottom of a glass up is harmless air. Grit that settles is mineral scale from hard water.

First, find out if it’s hot water only

Smell and color problems are commonly blamed on the water heater, but often the heater only makes an existing water problem easier to notice. The quickest way to tell is to compare taps. The Vermont Department of Health suggests checking after you’ve been away from home for a few hours, because your sense of smell dulls quickly.

  1. Run the cold tap, then the hot tap, at the same sink

    Fill a clear glass from each. Smell each one away from the sink, and look at the color against something white.

  2. Note whether it fades

    Does the smell or color clear after the water runs for a minute or two, or stay the same?

  3. Check another fixture

    One faucet or the whole house? If you have a softener, compare softened and unsoftened taps (an outdoor spigot is often unsoftened).

Symptom, test result and likely cause
SymptomHot onlyHot and cold
Rotten-egg smellWater heater: bacteria and anode reactionFades as water runs: sulfur bacteria in the well or plumbing. Constant: hydrogen sulfide in the groundwater. Softened water only: bacteria in the softener
Rusty, brown, red or yellowWater heater: corrosion, iron bacteria or sedimentClears after running: corroding steel pipes. Sudden, and neighbors too: water main disturbance
Black water or black specksHydrogen sulfide reacting in the heater and hot linesManganese, or corrosion of pipes and fittings
Milky or cloudyUsually air; or scale particles from heated hard waterAir in the lines, often after work on the water system

Sources: Vermont Department of Health; Minnesota Department of Health; A.O. Smith Technical Bulletins 21 and 22; Rheem Technical Service Bulletin 1206; EPA secondary drinking water standards; City of Albany, Oregon water FAQ.

Rotten-egg smell from the hot tap: bacteria and the anode

The smell is hydrogen sulfide gas. Rheem says people can detect it at about 0.5 parts per million: below 1 ppm it smells musty, and at 1–2 ppm it smells like rotten eggs. Rheem calls it “a water chemistry condition, rather than a water heater problem,” but the heater is where the chemistry happens.

The four ingredients of rotten-egg smell in a water heater A tank water heater cutaway with a magnesium anode rod. Four conditions are labeled: sulfate in the incoming water, sulfate-reducing bacteria living in the tank, water with little dissolved oxygen, and active hydrogen given off by the anode as it protects the tank. A.O. Smith says the bacteria thrive below 138 degrees Fahrenheit. Together they produce hydrogen sulfide gas that leaves with the hot water and smells like rotten eggs. Removing any one ingredient stops it. Rotten-egg smell needs all four COLD IN HOT OUT 1 Sulfate in the water supply 2 Sulfate- reducing bacteria harmless to people 3 Hydrogen given off by the magnesium anode as it protects the tank 4 Little oxygen in still water; the bacteria thrive below 138°F = Hydrogen sulfide the rotten-egg smell The fixes remove an ingredient: chlorination kills the bacteria; a less active anode cuts the hydrogen.
Four ingredients, one smell. A.O. Smith lists the conditions: sulfate in the water, sulfate-reducing bacteria, little dissolved oxygen, and hydrogen produced by the anode’s corrosion protection. It says the bacteria thrive below 138°F.

Most tanks carry a magnesium anode rod, a sacrificial metal bar that corrodes so the steel tank doesn’t (see anode rods). As it works, it releases hydrogen. Harmless sulfate-reducing bacteria, which A.O. Smith says often get into a water system during construction or through a break in underground piping, use that hydrogen to turn sulfate into hydrogen sulfide. A.O. Smith says water softeners, well water and long periods without water use all raise the odds, and Rheem says the problem is more common in softened water.

Fixes, in the order manufacturers suggest them

  1. Disinfect the tank and plumbing (shock chlorination). A.O. Smith calls this the simplest treatment but a surface treatment that often needs repeating. Vermont’s health department warns the smell can return within a few weeks if any bacteria survive.
  2. Replace the anode with a less active one. Rheem’s fix is a bleach flush plus its R-Tech anode, which reduces anode activity, and it says this “may not be 100% effective.” Vermont and Minnesota health officials suggest asking a dealer about an anode of a different material, such as aluminum. Powered (electronic) anodes are also sold as odor fixes; those claims come from sellers.
  3. Treat the water supply. Rheem says a continuous chlorine feeder is the only fix that is 100% effective. A.O. Smith lists continuous chlorination or aeration of the supply as longer-lasting solutions.

A.O. Smith notes that because the bacteria come with the water, odor treatment isn’t a warranty repair, so expect to pay for the visit. For anode prices, see what a new anode costs.

Smell from every tap: well water and hydrogen sulfide

If the cold water smells too, the heater isn’t the source. Minnesota’s Department of Health says hydrogen sulfide can occur naturally from decay and reactions with soil and rock, come from sulfur bacteria in the groundwater, well or plumbing, or rarely from pollution. EPA notes that private wells aren’t regulated under the Safe Drinking Water Act, so testing and treatment are up to the owner.

  • Health: both states say the bacteria aren’t harmful, but hydrogen sulfide gas in the air can be hazardous at high levels, so it should be vented and not allowed to collect in well pits, basements or well houses.
  • Test more than the smell: the rotten-egg odor usually isn’t a sign of unsafe water, but in rare cases it comes from sewage or other pollution, so both states advise testing for total coliform bacteria and nitrate.
  • Bacteria in the well or plumbing: shock chlorination of the well and plumbing, which may require a licensed well contractor.
  • Hydrogen sulfide in the groundwater: Vermont lists activated carbon for low levels (under about 1 mg/L), an oxidizing filter such as manganese greensand up to about 6 mg/L, and chemical oxidation plus filtration above that.

Rusty or brown hot water: tank, iron bacteria or pipes

Rusty-looking water is usually iron. EPA’s secondary drinking water guideline for iron is 0.3 mg/L, above which water can take on a rusty color, sediment and a metallic taste. Manganese above 0.05 mg/L causes black to brown water and black staining. These are aesthetic limits, not health limits.

Hot water only

Three causes are common, and they need different responses.

  • Iron bacteria. A.O. Smith says these, not tank failure, are the most common cause of rusty hot water. They feed on dissolved iron and thrive where soluble iron exceeds 0.2 ppm, in low-oxygen water below 138°F. Softeners, well water and long idle periods help them. Treatment is shock chlorination, and A.O. Smith says the tank usually needs a new anode because the bacteria speed anode failure.
  • Sediment. Loose rust-colored sediment can collect at the bottom of a tank. A flush may clear it; see how to flush a tank water heater.
  • Tank corrosion. Rheem says brown or reddish hot water often points to corrosion inside the tank or a worn-out anode, and ENERGY STAR lists rust in the water as a sign the heater’s interior is breaking down.

Hot and cold

The City of Albany, Oregon’s water department says the most common cause of brown, red, orange or yellow water is rusting galvanized steel pipe inside the home. It puts their typical life at about 20 years before corrosion shows, up to 40 for well-made pipe. Signs it’s your plumbing: water is discolored on first use in the morning, clears after running a few minutes, and may show at some faucets but not others. The permanent fix is replacing the pipe, and when copper is joined to old steel, a dielectric fitting keeps the copper from making the steel rust faster.

Cloudy or milky water: air or minerals

Water holds dissolved air, and the air can come out as tiny bubbles that make it look milky. Albany’s water department says milky white water “is almost always caused by air,” and says it may be more noticeable with seasonal temperature changes or after the water has been shut off and turned back on.

  1. Do the glass test

    Fill a clear glass and set it down. If the cloudiness is air, it clears from the bottom up within a few minutes (City of Albany; East Valley Water District).

  2. Air: nothing to fix

    Both utilities say water that clears this way is safe. If it doesn’t clear after about five minutes, Albany suggests calling the utility.

  3. Grit or flakes that settle: minerals

    White particles that sink are likely scale. USGS explains that heating hard water forms solid calcium carbonate deposits in a water heater. Flushing removes loose material; the long-term answer is in hard water and your water heater.

When it means the heater needs replacing

Smell and air problems almost never mean a new heater. Rust is different. Rheem says some discoloration can be fixed with maintenance or a new anode, but “persistent problems usually suggest your water heater is nearing the end of its lifespan,” and once a tank is corroding from the inside, replacement “becomes the only safe and cost-effective solution.”

Signs it’s time to price a replacement

  • Rusty water from the hot tap only that comes back after a flush and a new anode
  • Water pooling at the base, or seeping from the tank body rather than a fitting (see water heater leaking)
  • Visible rust on the tank jacket or around the fittings at the top
  • The heater is 10 years old or more: Rheem and ENERGY STAR both suggest planning around year 10 (see how long water heaters last)

If you’re weighing a repair against a new heater, repair or replace walks through the numbers. Installed prices from Home Depot’s published ranges run $1,600–$2,400 for a tank.

Common questions

Why does my hot water smell like rotten eggs but not my cold water?

The water heater is the likely source. Sulfate-reducing bacteria in the tank use hydrogen from the magnesium anode to make hydrogen sulfide gas. Disinfecting the tank and switching to a less active anode, or chlorinating the water supply, are the manufacturer-recommended fixes.

Is rotten-egg smelling water safe to shower in?

Vermont and Minnesota health departments say the sulfur bacteria aren’t harmful and the smell usually isn’t a sign of unsafe water, but hydrogen sulfide gas can be hazardous at high levels in enclosed spaces. If you have a well, test for coliform bacteria and nitrate to rule out contamination.

Can I remove the anode rod to get rid of the smell?

Don’t. A.O. Smith says removing the anode voids all warranty on the tank, and state health departments warn it may significantly shorten the heater’s life. Swap it for a less active anode instead.

Why is my hot water brown but the cold water is clear?

It’s coming from the water heater: iron bacteria, loose sediment or corrosion inside the tank. A.O. Smith says iron bacteria are the most common cause. Try a flush; if the color keeps returning and the tank is old, plan a replacement.

Does rusty hot water mean my water heater is about to fail?

Not necessarily, but it’s a warning. ENERGY STAR lists rust in the water as a sign the interior is breaking down, and Rheem says persistent discoloration usually means the heater is near the end of its life.

Why is my hot water cloudy?

Usually air coming out of the water as tiny bubbles. Fill a glass: if it clears from the bottom up within a few minutes, it’s harmless. If grit settles instead, it’s probably scale from hard water.

Does a water softener cause rotten-egg smell?

It can make it more likely. A.O. Smith lists softeners among the factors that raise the risk, and Rheem says the odor is more common in softened water. Vermont adds that bacteria can also grow in the softener itself.

Sources

Sources checked October 5, 2026. Prices, codes and rebates change. Check current details with your installer and local permit office.

  1. Hydrogen sulfide in drinking water (updated Mar. 17, 2025) ↗ · Vermont Department of Health
  2. Hydrogen sulfide and sulfur bacteria in well water (updated Oct. 18, 2024) ↗ · Minnesota Department of Health
  3. Secondary drinking water standards: guidance for nuisance chemicals ↗ · U.S. EPA
  4. Private drinking water wells ↗ · U.S. EPA
  5. Technical Bulletin 22: Smelly water ↗ · A.O. Smith
  6. Technical Bulletin 21: Discolored water ↗ · A.O. Smith
  7. Technical Bulletin 23: Chlorination procedure ↗ · A.O. Smith
  8. Signature 100 gas water heater installation instructions and use & care guide (100341468, 2021) ↗ · A.O. Smith
  9. Technical Service Bulletin 1206: Smelly water and the rotten egg odor ↗ · Rheem
  10. 5 signs your water heater is going bad (Dec. 22, 2025) ↗ · Rheem
  11. When should you replace your water heater? ↗ · ENERGY STAR
  12. Water FAQ (discolored, cloudy and smelly water) ↗ · City of Albany, Oregon, Public Works
  13. Cloudy water? ↗ · East Valley Water District (California)
  14. Hardness of water ↗ · U.S. Geological Survey
  15. Water heater installation cost guide ↗ · Home Depot